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DECEMBER 2009

 

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Help Your Dog Want to

to Come when Called!

 

 By Frances Goodman

 

Do you want your dog to come quickly and happily when called?

That’s how it should be.

In addition to obedience class, there are many things we can do and not do around the house that can give puppies and dogs a head start toward this important response.

Here are some of them.

* First and foremost! Never call your dog to you for anything unpleasant, like discipline or anything they will regret.  Instead, go and get the dog. If you call a dog to you, and then something unpleasant happens, they will remember. Next time, they will think about it, and may not come near!

* When you call your dog, first say their name in a happy voice! Give direct eye contact and say “Come,” with enthusiasm! Remain standing, but lean toward the dog, extend your open hands, and wave her in toward you.

* Begin praising as soon as the dog starts moving toward you and keep it up. Cheer them in! In other words, praise the act of coming toward you as well as the arrival. This is a secret that many owners and even trainers overlook.

* Upon arrival, give a treat or just lots of affection. Make it a happy occasion, so the dog is always glad it came when you called. (Only use treats randomly. Your praise and affection should be the major reward.)

* Here’s one more exercise that can work wonders: Sometimes, call your dog to you for no reason at all. Tthen take hold of the collar and hold him quietly in front of you for about five seconds of affection and sweet talk. Then tell him “okay” and let him go back to the previous activity. That reinforces coming to you as a happy event. It also teaches that coming when called does not mean confinement or the end of the fun.

These little tips are reinforcements that can help your dog always be glad to come when called.

And here’s a precaution: Never pretend to have a treat to get your dog to come to you, only to find there is no treat. That will teach him not to believe you.

And trust is one of the most important parts of the relationship.

 

 

 

Four Mistakes Dog Owners Make

  By Frances Goodman

 

Despite the best of intentions, there are some common mistakes frequently made by dog lovers that can work against a good dog-human relationship.

Here are four of them.

1. Using the dog’s name for negatives:

How would you feel if every time you did something wrong someone yelled your name: Nancy!! Or Daniel!! Or Mary!! etc.

After a while you would not like hearing your name. And if someone called your name followed by “Come here,” you might be inclined to go the other direction.

A better way is to simply use NO! or AHH-AHH! in the same disciplinary tone of voice. The dog will know you are talking to them.

Bottom line: Use your dog’s name with positive things like affection, treats, walks and certain obedience commands.

This way when you say “Fido!! Come!” you are much more likely to get the desired response.

2.  Inconsistency in communication:

A common mistake is using the word “Down!” as a correction for jumping on people or the furniture and then using it as the command to lie down.

To avoid sending mixed signals to the dog, change to a new word or words for each of the behaviors. For example use “Lie Down” as the command and “Off” for the correction. And be consistent in the use of each.

3. Aggressive play:

Rough play, including such games as wrestling and tug-of-war, can raise a dog’s excitement to such a pitch that it encourages aggression. It should be avoided in the case of dogs and puppies with aggressive tendencies either individually or historically as a breed.

Husbands and sons tend especially to make this mistake with family dogs which are ultimately expected to become gentle pets for children. Stopping the play before it gets too rough by reading the dog’s excitement level is critical.

A few firm words like “Okay, that’s enough!” and then ending the activity by calmly stopping and walking away will usually work. A treat for immediately calming down and responding properly is also good.

4. Swatting or whipping the dog.

Dogs may become fearful or aggressive from being hit. In nature, dogs don’t hit each other for discipline. They use a low, cross voice, as in a growl, and a threatening look to make a correction.

A better way for us to teach dogs something is unacceptable is to use a strong NO! or AH-AH! with a low, cross voice and our own threatening stare. And to instantly reinforce acceptable behaviors with calm, loving praise.

Humans often fail to realize that tone of voice is one of our strongest training tools.

Learning to give instant positive or negative feedback with the correct tone of voice is a key to communicating with dogs.

 

 

 

AKC to Honor

Outstanding Dogs

at December Show

By Frances Goodman

Five loyal, hard-working dogs will be honored by the American Kennel Club in December for “significant contributions” to their communities in five separate categories of service.

The awards will be made at the nationally televised AKC/Eukanuba national championships in Long Beach, CA., and will include $1,000 and a sterling silver medallion for their collars.

Here are the five and their service categories:

Exemplary Companion Dog -- Electra, an eight-year-old standard poodle owned by Mandy Willis of Valrico, FL.

Electra has been seven-year-old Mandy’s constant companion since her cancer diagnosis and subsequent chemotherapy treatments began in February 2008. Electra lived the life of a top show champion until her owners learned about Mandy’s dream to own a poodle. Electra and Mandy bonded immediately and have been inseparable ever since.

Search and Rescue Dog -- Sage, a 10-year-old border collie owned and trained by Diane Whetsel of Hagerman, NM, a K-9 officer for the New Mexico Corrections Dept.

Sage served at the Pentagon in the aftermath of 9/11 and went to Aruba in 2005 to search for the missing teen Natalee Holloway. Sage and Whetsel deployed to Iraq in 2007 and spent six months searching for missing soldiers.

Law Enforcement Dog -- Robin, a six-year-old golden retriever owned by Mary and Joseph MacQueen of Frewsburg, NY.

Robin and Mary work for the Salamanca Police Department and the Cattaraugus County Sheriff’s Office, assisting with searches for illegal drugs in western New York state. In 2009 alone, Robin has been responsible for getting about half-a-million dollars worth of dangerous narcotics off the streets.

Therapy Dog -- Elliot, owned by Miriam Couto of Woodland, WA, a seven-year-old border terrier and registered therapy dog with Delta Society.

Elliot has logged more than 1,000 hours with patients, most of them children. He assists in the care of the children at his local children’s hospital, providing comfort and helping calm patients so doctors can better help them. Elliot has even assisted doctors in performing life-saving duties.

Service Dog -- Benton, a six-year-old Labrador retriever owned by Margo Dietrich of Norcross, GA. Benton is trained as an assistance dog for Margo. Some of the daily tasks he assists Margo with include retrieving dropped items, dressing, and transferring her to and from a wheelchair.

“Each dog’s devotion to improving the lives of others and the impact they make in their community is an inspiration to dog lovers everywhere,” AKC spokesperson Ronald Rella said.

 

 

Protecting Pets in

a Hurricane

 

Now is the time to be sure we have a good plan for protecting the pets as well as the humans in case of a hurricane -- or any other emergency..

Statistics show pets left behind in disasters have a poor chance of surviving. Keeping them safe with the family is the goal. Experts also advise that pets should be secured at the very first sign of emergency conditions. Once things start getting crazy, animals can panic and run away.

If evacuation is likely, having a potential route already in mind is  important. If you plan to stay in a motel out of the danger zone, be sure it’s pet-friendly when you make the reservations.

At any motel or hotel, pets should never be left loose in the room when you are out. A forgetful housekeeper can mistakenly let them escape if they are not in their carrier or crate.

It’s especially important to never let our vehicle run low on gas. No one wants to be searching for a gas station if evacuation is necessary.

If you must take your pet to an evacuation shelter, be sure he/she is confined in a crate or sturdy carrier with your name, contact information and a photo of the pet on the crate, along with food, meds and medical information. Hopefully, the pets are microchipped for ID in addition to tags.
 

Emergency Kit

Checklist

Having enough food and water to last five days without access to outside sources should be a minimum provision.

The American Society for Prevention of Cruelty to Animals (ASPCA) recommends the following supplies be kept ready at all times in a pet emergency kit:

● Canned (pop-top) or dry food.

● Photocopies of medication and shot records and a waterproof container for a two-week supply of any medicine the pet requires. (Remember that food and meds need to be rotated out of your emergency kit on a regular basis to keep them fresh.)

● Bottled water.

● A pet traveling bag or sturdy carrier, ideally one for each pet.

● Flashlight.

● Blanket (for scooping up a fearful pet).

● Photos of the pets (in case you are separated and need to make "Lost" posters).

The kit should contain any other supplies you know your pet will need.

Having a pet that is already used to spending short periods of time in a crate or carrier is also helpful, for the pet’s sake. If they must be crated in times of emergency, the experience is less traumatic.

This applies to cats, pocket pets and birds as well as dogs. And when the pets are calmer, stress on the humans is also reduced.

 

 

 

PREVIOUS ARTICLES

 

 

 

Sago Palms Are in

Top 10 Toxic Plants

 A reminder about the toxicity of every part of the Sago Palm has been issued by the Animal Poison Control Center of the ASPCA.

Some people assume that only the nut from the female Sago is poisonous. Not so. All parts are toxic in both genders of the tree, according to the APCC.

This includes the miniature or “bonsai” version of the popular plant.

In recent years, the APPC has seen a 200 percent increase in cases involving ingestion of Sago and other Cycads. Of those, 50 to 75 percent resulted in fatalities.

Sago palms and other Cycads contain a neurotoxin that can potentially produce vomiting, diarrhea, weakness, seizures, even liver failure and death in cats and dogs.

Here’s a reassuring note: Sagos are not really members of the palm family, but of the Cycad group, as noted. They’re referred to as palms because of their similarity in appearance.

The Sago is on the center’s list of the top 10 most common poisonous plants. Here are the other nine: 

Toxic List

Lilies – All members of the Lily family are highly toxic to cats. Ingestion of very small amounts can cause severe kidney damage and possibly death.

Marijuana -- Ingestion by companion animals can result in depression of the central nervous system and loss of coordination, as well as vomiting, diarrhea, drooling, seizures and coma.

Tulip/Narcissus -- The bulb portions contain toxins that can cause intense gastrointestinal irritation, drooling, depression of the nervous system, convulsions and cardiac abnormalities.

Azalea/Rhododendron -- Members of the Rhododendron family contain substances which can produce intestinal distress and depression of the central nervous system in animals. Severe azalea poisoning can lead to coma and death from cardiovascular collapse.

Oleander -- All parts are considered to be toxic, including the smoke from burning them. Oleanders contain cardiac glycosides that can cause gastrointestinal irritation, abnormal heart function, hypothermia and even death.

 And More

Castor Bean -- The Castor Bean plant produces ricin, which can produce severe intestinal distress, excessive thirst and weaknesss. Severe cases can cause dehydration, tremors, seizures, coma and death.

Cyclamen – The toxin is cyclamine, but the highest concentration is typically in the roots. If consumed, Cylamen can produce intense gastrointestinal irritation and may be fatal.

Kalanchoe – Ingestion can produce gastrointestinal irritation, and can seriously affect cardiac rhythm and rate.

Yew -- Contains taxine, which causes central nervous system effects such as trembling, incoordination, and difficulty breathing. It can also cause severe gastrointestinal irritation and heart failure.

Inside the house, puppies and cats are especially at risk for chewing on bouquets or potted plants. Outdoors, all pets are at risk, but especially puppies.

The ASPCA recommends that pet parents take the necessary precautions to prevent furry family members from contacting toxic plants in and around their home.

Better yet, replace the plant with a non-toxic alternative. For a list of non-toxic plants, visit www.aspca.org/nontoxic.

 

 PREVIOUS ARTICLES:

 

Know Your Pet’s Enemy, the Flea!

By Frances Goodman

Editor

The sages agree, knowledge is power. Here are 10 things every pet lover should know about fleas:

1. Fleas thrive in warmth and humidity, but they don’t like sunshine. Outdoors, they are least likely to be in broad expanses that get direct sun all day.

2. Carpet is one of their best allies. Flea larvae can live in the carpet or pad for months, even all winter, without hatching until the right conditions are present. (And the vacuum cannot reach larvae which migrate down to the pad.)

3. The right conditions for hatching include sufficient warmth plus vibration from a human or animal walking past.

4. If you go on vacation and leave the thermostat high, causing the house to warm up, be prepared for a flea attack when you return. This may happen anyway, because there has been no pet in the house for them to jump on. But the outbreak will be worse if the house has carpet and was allowed to warm up.

5. When fleas are present, after each vacuum cleaning, the bag (or contents for a bagless) should be discarded in a sealed plastic bag. Otherwise those you did get will crawl back out.

6. Flea collars (which are bands of pesticide) can cause respiratory problems for pets from breathing the toxic fumes. They are also mostly ineffective. See your vet for a safe flea control method. (Some products sold in the grocery store have caused illness, seizures and death of pets.)

7. The good news: Fleas they don’t thrive on tile floors because when the floor is cleaned, they and their larvae are cleaned up (no place to hide.). However, this does not apply to hardwood floors which have cracks where the larvae can hide.

8. Not all itching is from fleas. Some is from allergies. Here are three ways to tell if your pet has fleas:

-- Examine their fur or bedding for small black specks of flea excrement, and tiny wiggly flea larvae.

-- Or, shake the bedding over a smooth white surface -- the tub or a sheet -- and look for the specks and larvae. If you put a drop of water on the specks, they will generally turn reddish-brown.

-- For cats, and some dogs with a fine coat, use a metal flea comb, being sure to contact the skin as you comb. The comb catches and holds the fleas, which you must quickly secure and dispose of properly. (See next tip.).

9. Fleas don’t easily drown, they just “pass out” in soapy water and in some flea shampoos. If the water containing fleas is thrown outside, they’ll revive and live to bite again.

10. Cats and dogs can contract tapeworm from accidentally swallowing a flea.

Best wishes! Always follow directions carefully on flea control products.

 

10 Tips for Keeping Cats

Safe, Healthy

 

For those whose best friends are the feline variety, here are 10 valuable safety tips that every cat lover should know.

1. Never give aspirin or acetaminophen (Tylenol) to a cat. These medications can cause severe illness or fatality for felines.

2. Beware of anti-freeze leaks in the driveway. All pets are attracted to the smell and taste, and it can be fatal if ingested.

3. Never use clumping litter for kittens. They will play with it and may eat it, causing severe gastric problems and/or blockages.

4. Unplug dangling electrical cords or tack them down.

5. Keep the dryer door closed.

6. Place latches on cabinet doors where household chemicals are stored.

7. All parts of lilies, in bouquets or outdoors, are highly toxic to cats if nibbled.

8. Recliners can seriously injure cats (or any small pet) if they are under or in them when changing positions.

9. Prevent a problem by avoiding the use of green-grass rugs (the kind woven with plastic fibers). Cats are attracted to the grass-like fibers and may eat them, resulting in a life-threatening blockage.

10. Store a cat-carrying travel crate where it can be quickly available in case of emergency, with one for each cat in the household.

And here’s an extra tip from a veterinary technician: Always call ahead to alert the staff if you are bringing a pet in with an emergency.
 

 

 

Buyer Beware When

Choosing Pet Toys  

By Frances Goodman

 

 The world is full of products for pets, and not all are good for them.

In my opinion, those rubber toys with holes for stuffing treats inside -- and the kind with a bell inside -- should be avoided for all dogs and puppies.

Especially the kind with ONLY ONE OPENING.

If the dog’s tongue is poked into the hole so that a vacuum is created inside, the tongue can become stuck inside the toy.  If not removed by a veterinarian immediately, damage to the tongue can be permanent.

Not to mention the trauma to the pet.

Even the bouncy rubber toy with openings at both ends can cause problems.

While gnawing on such a toy, even with no treat inside, one of my adult dogs managed to get his bottom jaw stuck inside the larger opening.

His lower canine teeth prevented him from being able to get the hard rubber toy off, and panic set in.

Ultimately it came off. But I would never want a pet to go through that again.

Unfortunately, some pet toy makers do not seem to be pet-wise.  

Rawhide

Rawhide is also something about which to be cautious.

Consuming too much can unbalance the diet and affect the appetite. In dogs with allergies, it can cause increased itchiness.

Also, you never want to leave a pet unsupervised with rawhide, because it swells when it is wet. If a chunk gets stuck in their throat, it can cause choking.

If you feel rawhide is a must, always search for the brands that are “product of USA, oven-cured.” The curing methods in countries where most of it comes from are questionable at best, toxic at worst.

Care also should be taken with the edible “bones” made from corn starch and other ingredients. You may recall the publicity in cases where some were not fully digested and caused serious intestinal problems.

 

Recommended

I generally recommend the following for puppies and dogs:

--A ROPE BONE (sometimes called a Booda bone) that can be played with and chewed under your supervision. (It’s also a good throw toy.)

--A STERILIZED BEEF bone from the pet supply store,  the kind that says “veterinarian approved.” Supervision is needed here, too.

--A SOLID (not hollow) rubber ball, big enough that the pup or dog cannot choke on it.

Any toy should be discarded when it has been chewed to a size that could cause choking.

You also want to be sure nothing can be pulled off, choked on, or swallowed.  Plastic eyes, fabric tails, bells and the like should all be removed before giving toys to cats, kittens, puppies or dogs.

P. S. Never give your dog an old shoe to chew on. It likely contains toxic chemicals. Plus, they won’t be able to understand it’s okay to chew on this one, but not on your designer shoes.

 

 

 

The importance of providing

a designated caregiver

By Frances Goodman

We never know when weather, traffic, or an unexpected emergency may keep us from returning home on time to care for the pets.

For their sake, animal welfare agencies recommend that two types of care should be pre-designated by pet owners:

* A temporary or “stand-by” caregiver in case of an unexpected delay;

* A permanent caregiver (adopter) in the event you can no longer care for your pet.

 Temporary

When choosing a temporary caregiver, consider someone who lives near you, gets along with your pet, and is knowledgeable about pet care.

Someone responsible enough not to allow a pet to slip out the front door.

This person is someone who would be willing and able to go to your home and care for the pets if you have any problem that keeps you from getting home to feed, potty, water, and otherwise provide for.

A temporary caregiver should be someone who is generally available when you are working, or could easily become available.

A set of keys should be given to this trusted individual. You may even swap caregiving responsibilities, depending on schedules.

It’s good to have a back-up.

Permanent

A permanent caregiver is that reliable person to whom you would entrust your pet if something happened to you.

Life can change in day, an hour or an instant.

If something happens to us, what happens to the pets?

This person, too, should be someone who likes your pet and has successfully cared for animals in the past.

Discuss your expectations at length, to be sure he or she understands the responsibility you are asking them to accept, and is completely willing to accept it.

Be sure to make financial provisions for the pet’s care if possible.

 

 

 

 Our New Pet Lovers' Quiz

 

Give yourself 10 points for each correct answer, aiming for a score of 100.

 Questions:

1. What artificial sweetener is okay for people but potentially lethal to dogs?

2. True or False: Growling by young puppies is a sign they will grow up to be aggressive.

3. What kind of cookware can be toxic to birds if it is overheated and they breathe the fumes?

4. What hormone motivates male dogs to lift a leg when urinating, and why do they lift it?

5. True or false: A black spot on a dog’s tongue always means it is part Chow-Chow.

6. When a cat or dug refuses to eat, it may have digestive problems. What else could it mean?

7. When the label on cat or dog food says “meat by-products,” what kind of meat is it?

8. When Stanley Coren wrote “Intelligence of Dogs,” he ranked 10 breeds at the top of the list for “ease of trainability for human-pleasing behavior.” (Not intelligence, but ease of trainability to….) Can you name three in the top 10? (Each correct answer counts for 10 points.)

 Answers

1. Xylitol, a popular “sugarless” sweetener for gum, candy and baked goods, can cause a deadly drop in blood sugar and liver damage for dogs who consume it.

2. False, false, false! Puppies growl, wrestle, bark, and chew because they are learning how to be a dog. It’s a natural part of their development. Our job is to be sure those activities are properly directed and not excessive.

3. Teflon, in particular, but also some other non-stick pans can cause dangerous fumes for birds. Really, any pan that is overheated enough to cause smoke or fumes can be dangerous for cage birds in the vicinity.

4. Testosterone motivates male dogs to lift a leg and urinate on places or objects to claim or “mark” their territory and show dominance.

5. False. It is not unusual for Golden retrievers, Pomeranians and other breeds to also have a black spot or spots on their tongue.

6. Refusing to eat, dropping food, or chewing on one side of the mouth, may indicate a dental disorder or mouth tumor. Additional signs may include weight loss, unpleasant breath or excessive face-rubbing. Routine dental checkups are important to prevent problems and pain.

7. Meat by-products could be any kind of meat – even horsemeat -- and any part – feathers, toenails, or indigestible intestines. There is no limit placed on that labeling.

8. Here are the 10, in order as ranked: Border collie, poodle, German shepherd, Golden retriever, Doberman, Sheltie, Labrador retriever, Papillon, Rottweiler and Australian cattle dog. They are rated as “obeying first command 95 percent of the time.” (Note: Pembroke Welsh Corgis and miniature Schnauzers ranked 11 and 12.)

There’s no way, of course, to rank the mixed breeds, who sometimes inherit the best from the gene pool. Or to rank the unconditional love we get from dogs, whether mixed or purebred.

 

 

 

Here's a Quiz for

Pet Lovers

 

By Frances Goodman

Once again it’s time for a fun pet lover’s quiz.

Here are eight questions involving different types of pets. The answers will follow below.

 

Questions:

1. A dog’s skeletal structure is minus a major bone that humans have. What is it?

2. Cats can see in the dark. Can dogs?

3. What is the biggest cause of injury or death to pocket pets that are allowed to play out of their cage?

4. True or false: Old dogs can’t be trained; they must start young.

5. True or false: A dog’s normal body temperature is 98.6 degrees.

6. In what way are cats’ claws different than most other animals’ claws?

7. What “pet” fish can live 85 years or longer?

8. Some parrots are reported to have the intelligence of a human child of what age?

 

Answers:

1. Dogs do not have a collarbone (clavicle) across their chest as we do. This is one of the reasons they can squeeze front paws together and wiggle through amazingly narrow spaces.

2. Dogs also can see in the dark, at least much better than we can. Both cats and dogs have extra light-gathering “rods” in the retina. They also have special reflectors in the back of the eye that send extra light to the retina. These reflectors can sometimes be seen shining back as a greenish glow.

3. Being sat on is one of the biggest risks for pocket pets that are allowed out of their cages, because most have an inborn instinct to burrow. As they see it, sofa and chair cushions seem to be an ideal place. Knowing where they are at all times (supervision) is the best safeguard.

4. False. Old dogs can learn as long as they are healthy and can see and hear. (After all, senior citizens can go to college and get a degree.) It does take a little more patience. It’s better, of course, to start young, before bad habits are ingrained.

5. False. Normal body temperature for a dog is around 101 degrees.

6. Cats are one of the very few animals that can retract their claws when not in use. This keeps them from being worn dull from walking, since sharp claws are important for their self-defense and climbing. Dogs, bears and most other animals have non-retractable claws, which provide more traction for speed when running.

7. Japanese Koi, which are a colorful version of carp, are known to live 85 years and longer when the pond conditions are healthy.

8. Some parrots, especially African greys and Macaws, have shown the intelligence of a 3-to-5-year-old human child. Alex, a famous African grey, who was the subject of much research, had a vocabulary of more than 100 words. He could identify colors and shapes, and learned to count quantities up to six, including zero.

 

 

 

Thinking of Using

a Pet-Sitter Instead?

 

By Frances Goodman


 

Thinking of using a pet sitter instead of a kennel for your next trip away from home?

Whether they are a responsible bonded professional, or a trusted pet-loving friend, here’s an important safeguard:

While you’re gone, communicate with the sitter by phone or email at least every other day to be sure all is well.

This is important because pet sitters are human. What if they should become ill? What if they should have a family emergency requiring them to rush to another city?

Worst case scenario, what if they should have an accident, wind up unconscious in the hospital, and no one knows they were supposed to be feeding your pets?

This sort of possibility makes it wise to have a back-up caregiver in place – one you can call on in case the first one becomes unexpectedly sidelined.

Here are three other important tips to remember when using a pet sitter:

1.) Always leave written instructions on medical care, veterinarian contacts, and how to reach you at all times case of emergency.

2.) If you have multiple pets, especially of different species, a pet-sitter who merely visits two or three times a day is not recommended. There are too many things that can happen when animals are left alone together in the confinement of a home.

With a combination such as cats and cage birds, dogs and cats, or even with the same species, consider the security of a trusted kennel when you must be away.

3.) In most cases, a pet-sitter who will live in your home while you’re gone (one who is trustworthy and comes well-recommended), is a better option than one who stops by to feed several times a day.

 

 

To scoop or not to scoop:

It's a neighborly issue


TODAY more than ever, pet-owner etiquette is important for good neighborly relations.

Pets can be goodwill ambassadors or the opposite -- it all depends on the caregivers.

One of the biggest complaints non-dog owners have against dog owners is not scooping after their pet, whether on public property or in someone else’s yard.

A survey by the American Kennel Club revealed this as the number one complaint, followed by not controlling the dog or “letting it jump on you.”

Here is the quiz to check your score in the area of good pet-owner etiquette.

The goal is a score of 100 on each of the following tests. Dog owners get 10 points for each yes or affirmative answer. Cat owners get 20 points for each yes or affirmative answer.

 

Dog-owners’ Etiquette Test

1. I observe leash laws and do not allow my dog to run loose.

2. I ALWAYS scoop the poop if my dog potties on someone else’s yard or on public property.

3. My dog is spayed or neutered (so will not add to the pet overpopulation crisis).

4.When we meet other dogs or people during leash walks, we do not approach without permission.

5. I do not allow my dog’s barking to disturb my neighbors.

6. My dog is not allowed to jump on guests. She is well-trained or stays in another part of the house when we have company.

7. My dog is not allowed to beg guests for food or treats.

8. My dog has been to obedience class and is well-behaved in public.

9. I do not allow my dog to fence-fight with the neighbor’s dog. If necessary I use secondary fencing to prevent this.

10. At the vet’s office, I keep my dog close to me and/or in a sit/stay so as not to disturb other pets.

 

Cat-owners’ Etiquette Test

1. My cat is not allowed to potty in the neighbors’ flowerbeds;

2. Or stalk birds at the neighbor’s bird feeder or birdbath;

3. Or leave paw prints on the neighbors’ cars.

4. My cat is spayed or neutered so there is no night-fighting.

5. Being spayed or neutered, my cat will not contribute to the pet over-population crisis.

Congratulations to all who scored 100!

 

 

 

 

Is your vet

current on shots?

 

By Frances Goodman

 

Is your pet being over-vaccinated?

Fortunately, most enlightened veterinarians long ago joined the vaccine revolution by switching to the revised guidelines of the American Animal Hospital Association.

Those guidelines, which recommend three-year intervals instead of one-year intervals on core vaccines for adult dogs, were adopted in 2003 and were updated in 2006.

Not all veterinarians have flexed.

If yearly boosters are still being administered by your veterinarian for distemper, adenovirus, parvo or rabies, which are classified as core vaccines, you may be paying for unnecessary and unwise vaccinations.

A maverick Texas veterinarian named Dr. Bob Rogers was a major player in the vaccination revolution.

In the late 1990s, he took the public stand that most pets were receiving unnecessary boosters every year for core vaccines that, in fact, provided protection for three years or longer.

He also publicized the negative health effects of over-vaccination.

He was unpopular and criticized professionally, but he stood fast and in the long run his position was justified.

For some fascinating insight, visit www.critterfixer.com for his notes on dog and cat vaccines, how they work, and what the negatives can be. It’s a page-by-page presentation that he used in making his stand years ago.

 

Currently

Below are excerpts from AAHA’s canine vaccine guidelines as currently published on its web site, www.healthypet.com:

“Make sure that your dog completes the initial series of core vaccines administered at the puppy stage, as well as booster shots at one year of age.

“Following these one-year boosters, the AAHA Canine Vaccine Guidelines recommend that the distemper, adenovirus and parvovirus core vaccines be administered once every three years.

“States and municipalities govern how often rabies boosters are administered. Some areas require a rabies booster be administered annually. Others require a three-year-effective rabies booster be given every three years. Still others allow either a one-year or a three-year rabies vaccine to be utilized.…”

The guidelines recommend that “non-core” vaccines, for diseases such as kennel cough, Lyme disease and leptospirosis, should be given according to a dog’s lifestyle and risk of exposure.

An example would be kennel cough vaccine every six months for dogs that are frequently boarded or shown.

 

Concern

One medical concern about switching to a three-year schedule for core vaccines was the fear that owners would only bring their pets in to the clinic every three years.

Because yearly checkups are beneficial and can be life-saving, the AAHA has placed emphasis on the importance of a yearly checkup, even though shots may not be due at that time.

To confirm the guidelines, and for more valuable information, I urge you to visit the Healthy Pet site listed earlier.

And also to communicate closely with your veterinarian regarding your pet’s individual needs.

I like the sign posted on my veterinarian’s web site:

“We will not over-vaccinate your pet. We vaccinate your pet based on its own particular lifestyle…Remember, no one size fits all.”

 

 

 

About volunteering…
Is fostering for you?
 

By Frances Goodman, Editor
 

If you’re a pet lover wondering how you can help animals in need, here’s a question to consider:

Can you provide a foster home for rescued pets waiting for adoption?

Area shelters do all they can. But with limited space and manpower, the homeless pets have to go, one way or another. Adoption or euthanasia are the options.

Some shelter pets have special needs that cannot be provided for in a shelter environment. Very young puppies or kittens, or a mother cat with a litter, would be an example. But there are many types of special needs.

For these pets, foster homes can be more than a safe haven – they can be a lifeline.

The socialization and nurturing that rescued pets receive by being in a typical home environment can also make a big difference in whether their future adoption is successful.

Ideally, those who volunteer as foster homes are people who have a knowledge of the species (dog, cat, bird or rabbit) and a willingness to help.

A foster caregiver must be able to keep the pet safe and secure by making it a part of their family, keeping it inside the home as much as possible; and securing it inside a locked, fenced yard when it must be outside for short periods of time.

Love is another essential ingredient, and means everything to an abandoned pet. But foster home volunteers must also be able to “let go” when a permanent home becomes available.

For more information on volunteering as a foster home call the Palm Beach County Animal Care and Control Division or the Peggy Adams Animal Rescue League. Their numbers are listed in our web site service directory under the shelters category.
 

 

 

In a Medical Emergency

Make this Call...

 

When medical emergencies happen with pets, the natural reaction is to get them in the car and rush to the vet clinic.

There’s one other important thing to do.

Making an advance call to alert the clinic that you’re on the way can save precious minutes, and sometimes a life.

An email we received from a pet lover who works at the front desk of an animal medical center reminds us that letting the staff know you’re on the way can also avoid the unhappy scenario of arriving only to find the vet is away or tied up in surgery.

She writes the following:

“I can't begin to tell you how frustrating it is when someone comes racing through our door with a pet limp in their arms and the vet is not available.

“There are times when our doctor is in pre-scheduled surgery and cannot be pulled away from the operating room.

“Other instances are when people come in with an injured or hurt animal and the doctor has stepped out to run an errand or get some lunch.

“A ‘heads up’ call could avoid a lot of unnecessary problems and delay!

“For example, if we were informed of a dog in trouble with delivery, we could get the necessary items prepared for a C-section. Or if the doctor was out of the clinic, we could redirect them to another local vet's office.”

She added:

“So much precious time is lost when people fail to call ahead to their veterinarian. We are here to save animals’ lives.

“Everyone can help with that by just giving us a ‘heads up’on emergencies.”

We appreciate the good advice and add the following:

Every pet lover should have two phone numbers posted clearly at home and/or programmed into their home and cell phones -- one for their regular veterinarian and the other for the after-hours emergency clinic that serves their area

Not having to stop and search for the number can also be a valuable time saver.

 

 

 

  What about the pets…?

When wedding bells

 are in the plans

 

By Frances Goodman

 

 

Planning a holiday wedding? For pet lovers, here’s an important question: Do you both have shared values when it comes to animals?

For serious pet lovers, a mutual attitude toward pets is important for long-term compatibility.

For those who are planning to wed, here is a checklist of issues that should be thoroughly aired before entering into a commitment to share a home:

--Will pets be allowed in the house?

--Will they be allowed to sleep on the bed?

--Are both parties willing to pay pet deposits (if renting)? Boarding fees when necessary?

--If one has cats and the other has dogs, are both willing to show the same care for each other's pets?

--Is walking the dog or having a cat-litter box in the house acceptable to both?

--What if there is an accident on the new carpet?

--Do both parties truly enjoy living with and interacting with pets--and with the same kind of pets?

Some people simply are not pet-oriented and may never be.

Many non-pet owners prefer order and structure in their surroundings. They would not easily tolerate an accident on the floor or pet hair on their good suit. In contrast, pet people tend to be more laid back.

In some cases, pet people tend to be more “touchy” and overtly affectionate that non-pet people.

And when it comes to expenditure of money for vet bills, the attitudes and values especially need to be compatible.

When two of the opposite persuasion marry, something has to give. Even in a best-case scenario, resentment may be harbored by the one who has to accept the other’s wishes. Sadly, if pets are the source of controversy, all too often they are the ones that suffer.

It’s best to be in perfect agreement ahead of time, for the sake of the pets as well as the relationship.

Best wishes!

 

 

Pet owner’s checklist for

 emergency preparedness

By Frances Goodman

Being able to live for one week without access to food, water or gasoline is considered a benchmark for survival in case of a major disaster.

Getting out early, when evacuation is called for, is another benchmark. For pets, this means being evacuated with the family or taken to safe shelter. The experts confirm that in a disaster, pets left behind are not likely to survive.

Either way, having a plan and having disaster supplies for the humans and the pets is crucial.

 

Questions to ask

Here are some important questions for pet owners to ask when planning ahead:

● How will we contain or restrain the pets in emergency conditions? (Note: If carriers are not available, a pillowcase tied shut can be used for temporary emergency evacuation of a cat or small puppy. However, carriers are more secure and are recommended for the comfort of the pet.).

● Are they properly identified with tags and/or microchip ID?

● Do we have a pet emergency/disaster kit containing food, medical records, their medications, and first aid supplies for them?

● If so, do we follow the rotation practice of putting new supplies in the kit and rotating the previous supplies out for use before they are outdated?

● At home or on the road, will there be enough drinking water for everyone including the pets? The very act of eating dry food, which absorbs moisture in the intestinal tract, can contribute to dehydration of animals if sufficient water is not provided. Is the stored water frequently rotated to maintain freshness?

● Do we make it a practice to never let our vehicle run lower than half a tank of gas at all times? Searching for a gas station when it’s time to evacuate is not a good scenario.

● In the event we are away from home during an emergency, do we have a backup caregiver who can gain access to the house and evacuate the pet? This should be someone who is familiar with the pet and is in close proximity to your home -- a responsible person with whom you can trust your housekeys and your pet.

 

At the first sign

Experts also advise that pets should be brought in and secured at the first sign of disaster. Once things start getting crazy, animals can panic and run away.

If pets are trained, socialized, and familiar with being kenneled in a carrier and riding in vehicles, they should be able to remain calm during an evacuation. This applies to cats and birds as well as dogs. And when the pets are calmer, stress on the humans is also reduced.

Spending quiet time in one’s crate occasionally under normal conditions at home should be standard fare for pets, so that when it’s necessary to be kenneled in emergency, or simply for going to the vet, the confinement is not stressful.

Maintaining disaster kits and having a plan can mean the difference between survival or suffering should an actual emergency arise.

Our pets can’t plan ahead for themselves. That part is up to us.

 

The scoop on

choosing a kennel

 

Here’s some good advice on what to look for when choosing a kennel for your pet:

Trust your senses (as well as your common sense) when inspecting a kennel as a possible "vacation" spot for your dog or cat.

Make sure the entire kennel is clean and orderly, indoor and outdoor runs included.

Make sure there are no offensive odors. There should be adequate ventilation. A well-run kennel should not reek of strong pet smells.

Make sure the temperature is adequate, not too warm and not too cold.

Ask to see the outdoor dog-running area. It should be close to spotless and made of gravel or concrete.

Ask how frequently the areas are cleaned.

The cattery should be in a separate area, shielded from dog facilities.

All responsible kennel owners and operators will ask you about your pets' vaccinations and will require proof of certain shots.

All responsible kennel owners and operators will show you each area in which the pets are kept.

The outdoor runs - and the entire kennel should be very secure. Many dogs attempt to break out, so talk to the kennel owners about this if you're worried.

Some last tips:

Bring along your pet’s bed or favorite toys. When you leave, be positive and upbeat. Tell your dog, "Here we are, Fido--it's your vacation. Good boy/girl!!" Do not apologize to your dog. He will sense your discomfort and become upset himself -- Compiled by the American Kennel Club and My Pet News.

 

 

 

 

Part of the formula for helping puppies be good is, "When you are with them, supervise. When you cannot be with them, confine them safely, so they cannot hurt themselves or the house." (But never for too long at a time.)

This is similar to the way humans use cribs and playpens for babies.

After they have come in from pottying, that's the time to give them some free but  supervised affection and play time in the house.

 

An ideal confinement method is a crate or puppy playpen in the same room as family activity, so the pup does not feel isolated or deserted. Dogs are highly social and do not tolerate aloneness well. This applies to puppies especially, since they have been separated from their mom and littermates.

 

A good rule of thumb is to never leave a puppy confined for more hours than the number of months it is old -- i.e. two hours for two months, three for three, etc.,  all the way up to four months of age, when four hours would be the maximum time. Besides that's generally how often they have to urinate at those ages! They also need frequent  socializing and play time with the family.

 

When dogs are adult, if confinement is necessary, the time limit should be six hours maximum --  but  not on a regular basis, only when necessary.