News and Features

 Frances Goodman Obedience Training

January 2010

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Resolutions for

Pet Lovers...

 By Frances Goodman

We don’t really need New Year’s to make resolutions.

Still, here are some good ones for pet lovers for the coming year and always!

For the Dogs

  I will research my dog’s breed, or breeds if mixed, to better understand the job it was bred for, so I can provide appropriate games, toys and activities.

  I will brush or comb my dog at least twice a week, because it’s good for the coat and the relationship. The comb or brush will be comfortable to the dog, one that reaches gently to the skin to distribute natural oils and remove loose fur.

  I will take the leash in hand for daily walks with my dog, not only to provide exercise but for the mental and social stimulation of the sights and smells.

I will teach my dog a special trick or job, make him/her feel really proud about the accomplishment, and practice it on a regular basis, always with praise.

For the Cats

  I will provide two litterboxes for my cat, or if I have a multi-cat household, the equivalent of at least one-and-a-half litterboxes for each cat.

  I will use unscented litter, because research shows it is preferred by most cats rather than scented, and the litterboxes will be well-maintained.

  I will keep my cat(s) inside for safety, but will provide pet grass (from the pet store) to nibble and perches with an outside view.

  I will provide sturdy cat furniture for climbing, scratching and snoozing.

  I will actively engage in play with my cat(s), and provide safe toys to chase or stalk.

For Pet Birds

  I will research my bird’s species to learn about specific care and housing needs.

  I will provide a cage that allows as much flight space as possible, with room to stretch and flap wings without bumping into bars or feeding cups.

  I will be sure the cage has a container of non-chlorinated water large enough for a daily “splash bath,” since moisture is necessary for natural grooming behaviors.

  I will provide my pet bird with an environmentally stimulating habitat – including toys, color, good light in the daytime and restful darkness at night – to more closely mirror the natural environment of nature.

  When I am away during the day, I will provide soft music or television turned low, knowing that in the forest or jungle there is always background sound.

All Pets

  I will provide my pets with the same quality of water, either spring water or filtered, as I drink.

  I will explore the natural and organic food sections of the pet supply store.

  I will get the magnifying glass, if necessary, to read ingredient labels on pet food and treats to avoid feeding my pet artificial color, chemical preservatives or sugar and its variations.

Previous Articles:

How Changing the Clock  Affects Wildlife

By Frances Goodman

 For some, the end of daylight savings time means “finally getting their lost hour back.”

Others already miss summer’s lingering light.

But for wildlife, both the shortening of days and the changing of clocks have an impact very few humans realize.

Deer and other wild animals are very active at this time of year. As the days get shorter and the drive home from work becomes a twilight trip for many, wildlife is more at risk along roads and highways.

Folks at the Humane Society of the United States have issued a reminder to slow down and be aware of wildlife activity. They want to curb the potentially fatal effects of low-visibility driving conditions on both wildlife and people.

Here are some HSUS tips to reduce the likelihood of an accident:

• Where there is one deer, there are likely others. If you see an animal crossing the road, slow down and remain alert for more.

• Be particularly alert for wildlife on roads at dawn and at dusk.

• Most animal-vehicle collisions occur on two-lane roads bordered by natural habitat. Be cautious in these areas.

• Do not toss trash out of car windows. Beyond polluting the environment, trash attracts wildlife to the roads and therefore leads to an increase in collisions.

"Deer-car collisions occur frequently from now to December," according to Susan Hagood of the HSUS.

"The peak of mating season, combined with more commuters traveling after dark, results in more accidents. Drivers should exercise caution and look for wildlife."

Those are all good tips that apply especially in our area. Nocturnal wildlife is just waking up and becoming active at twilight, while the daytime critters are on the move to return to their night-time quarters. At dawn, the procedure reverses.

Household Toxins Risky

for Pet Birds

By Frances Goodman

Whoever came up with the idea of keeping a canary in a coal mine as a sentry for air quality knew something all pet bird owners should keep in mind :

Birds are highly sensitive to inhalant fumes.

The miners knew if the canary was in distress, they had very little time to get above ground to safety.

For pet birds today, life is loaded with potentially dangerous inhalants. Not from subterraneous gasses -- from common household items.

These include aerosol products such as hairspray, perfumes and air fresheners, nail polish and polish remover, insecticidal fumigants, overheated cookware, automobile exhausts, tobacco, other forms of smoke, glues and paints.

Potential toxins are by no means limited to inhalants.

Because of their curiosity and their attraction to bright, shiny objects and containers, pet birds can get themselves in a heap of trouble.

For those with limited activity outside their cages, poisoning is not that common. Birds with free household access are most at risk of exposure to toxins.

Pesticide baits, mothballs, cleaning agents and houseplants are among the household items that pose a danger. Liquid potpourri is also high on the list of potential toxins.

Food and beverage items that can be dangerous to birds include onions, garlic, chocolate, coffee, coffee grounds and coffee beans, tea, yeast dough, salt, tomato leaves and stems, potato leaves and stems, rhubarb leaves, avocados, cigarettes and all tobacco products, moldy or spoiled foods and alcoholic beverages.

According to the Animal Poison Control Center of the ASPCA, medications also rank high on the list of toxins for birds. The center advises:

"Never give your bird medication unless you are directed to do so by a veterinarian. Many medications that are safe for humans can be potentially deadly for birds, even in small amounts. This includes painkillers, cold medicines, anti-cancer medications, antidepressants, vitamins and diet pills."

For all pets, especially birds, prevention is the best cure when it comes to toxins.

Her New Dog Has

House Training Issues

  Q: My daughter just added to her family with the adoption of a two-year-old dog.

He was very calm at the shelter but is now very spunky and happy to be in his new home. The only problem is he is not potty trained or (else) is marking his new territory. He is her only pet.

Do you have any tips on how to break him of piddling in the house? She put in a doggie door the day we brought him home and he knows how to use it. Signed, C. C. 

Dear C. C.: It’s not unusual for adopted pets to become more lively in their new surroundings.

Most likely he was depressed in the shelter and is now elated about having a family and home.

The immediate step on the house-wetting  is to be sure there is no medical cause behind it. This involves a visit to the vet and a urine sample.

Often when animals are confined at pet shops or shelters, they do not get taken out to potty as often as needed. This can cause bladder infections.

Also, if he is newly neutered, as is frequently the case with shelter-adopted pets, he may be having some urinary problems related to the surgery. 

Supervision

If a medical cause is ruled out, then the solution quite simply should be to supervise closely and interrupt the undesirable behavior with “Ehh-Ehh!” in a cross voice. She should immediately tell him “Outside!” and go out with him.

Your daughter should stay outside with him and praise him for doing it there.

This would apply whether the problem is territory marking or merely a need for re-training.

Usually a dog will “nose graze” before urinating, meaning they will sniff around for just the right spot, or sniff where there is a scent attractant.

If the motive is territory marking, vertical objects especially should be watched.

The very first sign of this kind of sniffing should be watched for and interrupted.

She should not leave him unsupervised with the run of the house until he is trustworthy. And all “mistakes” should be thoroughly deodorized. 

 Let Them Know

Most dogs naturally want to please us, but we have to consistently let them know what does and doesn’t make us happy. That means instant correction and praise, with appropriate tone of voice.

If supervision and verbal correction don’t teach him fairly quickly, then your daughter should go back to basic potty training methods, the kind used for young puppies.

This means he should be confined in a crate or doggie playpen, taken out on schedule, told what to do, and praised for doing it outside. Add an instant food treat as a reward.

This applies a principle in training that says: “If the dog is having a problem with any lesson, go back to kindergarten level until they learn it.”

Just be sure there are no medical issues.

Best wishes!

Is Your Pet a Little Overweight?

By Frances Goodman

Obesity is one of the greatest causes of disease, discomfort and disability in pets, especially as they grow older.

Here are some easy ways to determine if your pet needs to shed excess weight: 

Waistline Check

For dogs -- Looking at them from straight above, there should be a slight indentation of the waistline between the ribs and hips.

Viewing their shape from the side, the tummy area should curve slightly upward between the chest and hips.

For cats -- The stomach should not visibly pooch out when viewed from above, or show “tummy droop” when viewed from the side.

In both cases, you should be able to easily count the ribs by feeling them. You should not be able to see them, only feel them. 

Mealtime

Unfortunately, some owners make the mistake of feeding only once a day, thinking this will help the pet lose weight.

This can make the pet unhappy 23 hours a day and make the owner feel guilty, and likely will not help at all.

The experts agree it’s generally easier to accomplish weight loss for dogs if they are fed smaller meals twice a day (half their daily portion at each feeding) or three times a day (1/3 of their daily portion at each feeding),  rather than one full meal a day.

Cats, however, seem to do better if they can nibble throughout the day. For the one who overdoes it, dividing the total daily portion into four feedings throughout the day may be the best solution.

Since each food brand has a different nutrient level, it is important to read the package guidelines on how much your pet should get each day, based on age, breed and size.

Sometimes, overweight can be caused by medical conditions.

Hypothyroidism, or low thyroid production, can cause weight gain. This is treatable in pets just as for humans.

Older pets may gain weight from inactivity related to joint pain. For these pets, it’s especially important to get the weight off, to help relieve the stress on joints.

A visit to the vet is also in order, for help with the pain. 

High Fiber?

High fiber “diet foods” for pets are not always necessary.

Some merely fill the pet’s stomach with extra fiber, often causing a problem with gas.

Generally, if directions on the pet’s regular food package are followed (as described earlier) the proper weight will be maintained if there is sufficient exercise.

Pets need the right amount of play, exercise and general activity, combined with just the right amount of food.

Barring medical problems, they lose or gain weight the same way we do -- calories consumed versus calories burned.

 PREVIOUS ARTICLES:

Understanding the

Presidential Dog 

By Frances Goodman

The choice of a Portuguese Water Dog (PWD) by the First Family has probably resulted in the most publicity the breed has ever received.

They were only introduced in the United States in the late 1960s.

Now the demand for such dogs will surely increase, but not necessarily for all the right reasons.

Therefore, the Portuguese Water Dog Club of America (PWDCA) and the American Kennel Club are rushing to educate the public about them.

The goal is to help potential owners make the right choice,  based on their lifestyle and the dog's needs.

FIVE QUESTIONS

Based on information provided by the PWDCA, here are my answers to five major questions about the breed:

1. Do they really come from Portugal?

Yes. They have been traced to the coast of Portugal in ancient times, with a written history as far back as the 1200s.

2. What is the breed classification?

They are listed by the AKC as a “working dog.” They are strong swimmers. They reportedly helped fishermen long ago by herding fish into nets, retrieving lost fishing equipment and acting as couriers from boat-to-boat.

3. Do they make good pets?

Generally yes, if the owner is able to provide the exercise, socialization, training and companionship.

They are highly people-oriented and want to be with their “crew-mates,” so they don’t do well if left alone all day.

4. How big do they get?

Adult females can range from 35 to 50 lbs., and adult males from 42 to 60 lbs.

5. Are they really hypo-allergenic?

There are no guarantees. However, PWDs are considered less likely to cause allergies because they have a single coat of fur, with no undercoat.

Poodles, Wheaton Terriers, Kerry Blue Terriers and Bichon Frises are also in this category. (The undercoat is considered the problem for most allergic people.)

As with most breed clubs, The PWDCA has an excellent web site with much more information. You can find it at www.pwdca.org.

Feral Cats:

The Trap, Neuter, Return Program

They live in sheds, under buildings, and behind restaurant dumpsters.

They are feral cats, meaning they or their ancestors were once domesticated, but have reverted to a wild state from having to survive on their own.

They and their offspring can have litters as frequently as every two months.

Despite hostility from many, they do have friends and advocates.

The seventh annual National Feral Cat Day (NFCD) will be observed on Tuesday, October 16, sponsored by Alley Cat Allies, a national animal welfare organization.

The purpose is to spotlight the problem of feral cat overpopulation, and to promote the Trap-Neuter-Return (TNR) program as a non-lethal, humane, and cost-effective way to curb the problem and reduce the suffering.

A hoped for by-product would be to change the resentment that is often directed toward feral cats.

 Difference between feral and stray:

A feral cat is one that either has lived its entire life with little or no human contact, or was once domesticated, but has reverted to a wild state from having to survive on its own. Feral cats avoid human contact and cannot be touched by strangers.

Strays on the other hand, are lost or abandoned pets that usually can be re-socialized and adopted.

Adult feral cats generally cannot be tamed and are not suited to living indoors. They are most content living outside. Feral kittens, however, can often be tamed and adopted.

Well-meaning cat-lovers contribute to the overpopulation, problem, and ultimately to the suffering, by feeding stray or feral cats without spaying and neutering them.

Where TNR is practiced, cats already living outdoors are humanely trapped, evaluated, vaccinated, sterilized, and ear-tipped for identification by veterinarians. Kittens and tame cats are adopted into good homes. Healthy adult cats too wild to be adopted are returned to their familiar habitats under the supervision and care of dedicated volunteers.

Agencies supporting TNR include the Humane Society of the United States, the American Society of Prevention of Cruelty to Animals and many others.

What about the birds?

Advocates of TNR frequently find their viewpoint challenged by bird-lovers, who blame cats for threatening the bird population. The advocates’ response is that feral cats should be allowed to be part of the natural wildlife balance, and that pesticides and decreasing habitat due to human encroachment are the causes of declining bird population.

A further argument is that when feral cats are euthanized, new cats will move into the territory, and breeding will continue. If the cats are neutered and returned to the territory, however, the population will stabilize without the addition of offspring.

(Note for bird-lovers: Whether cats are present or not, birdbaths and feeders should be located away from low shrubbery or areas where any predator might take cover.)

For more information on TNR programs and concepts, visit www.alleycatallies.org.

RESPONSIBLE DOG OWNER'S PLEDGE

September is the month in which many dog clubs and animal agencies observe the annual American Kennel Club Responsible Dog Owner Day.

As part of it, the AKC offers an online pledge for responsible dog owners to sign regarding the care they will provide for their pets. Here are a few of the promises they ask owners to make:

▪ I will never overlook my responsibilities for this living being and recognize that my dog's welfare is totally dependent on me.

▪ I will always provide fresh water and quality food for my dog.

▪ I will socialize my dog via exposure to new people, places and other dogs.

▪ I will take pride in my dog's appearance with regular grooming.

▪ I will ensure that the proper amount of exercise and mental stimulation appropriate for my dog's age, breed and energy level is provided.

To participate or merely to view the complete pledge, visit www.AKC.org and go to the pet promise link.

Can you pass

the cat and dog owners...

ETIQUETTE TEST?

From time to time it’s a good idea to take a self-test on pet-owner etiquette.

One of the biggest complaints non-dog owners have against dog owners is not pooper-scooping after their pet when it messes on public property or someone else’s yard.

A recent survey by the American Kennel Club revealed this as the number one complaint, followed by not controlling the dog or “letting it jump on you.”

With so many pets and people living close together in urban settings, a whole new set of manners emerged for good neighborly relations, and good public relations for pets.

Here is a quiz to check your score in the area of pet-owner etiquette.

Dog owners get 10 points for each yes or affirmative answer. Cat owners get 20 points for each yes or affirmative answer.

 Dog owners

1. I observe leash laws and do not allow my dog to run loose.

2. I carry a scoop bag and ALWAYS scoop if my dog potties on someone else’s yard or on public property.

3. My dog is spayed or neutered, so will not add to the pet overpopulation crisis.

4. When we meet other dogs or people during leash walks, we do not approach without permission.

5. I do not allow my dog’s barking to disturb my neighbors.

6. My dog is not allowed to jump on guests. She is well-trained or stays in another part of the house when we have company.

7. My dog is not allowed to beg guests for food or treats.

8. My dog has been to obedience class and is well-behaved in public.

9. I do not allow my dog to fence-fight with the neighbor’s dog. If necessary I use secondary fencing to prevent this.

10. At the vet’s office, I keep my dog close to me and/or in a sit-stay so as not to disturb other pets.

Cat Owners

1. My cat is not allowed to potty in the neighbors’ flowerbeds;

2. Or stalk birds at the neighbor’s bird feeder or birdbath;

3. Or leave paw prints on the neighbors’ cars.

4. My cat is spayed or neutered so there is no night-fighting.

5. Being spayed or neutered, my cat will not contribute to the pet over-population crisis.

Congratulations to all who scored 100!

Summer

vacation:

What about

the pets?

  As vacation time approaches, the question will arise in many households: “What will we do about the pets?”

We recommend against the risky arrangement of having a neighbor come over to feed and water, unless they are familiar with the pet, extremely reliable, and used to caring for animals.

Children especially should not be expected to care for pets in a family’s absence, as they may not recognize signs of illness or know what to do in an emergency.

For safety and security, a trusted kennel or professional pet sitter (with excellent references) is a better lways my recommendation if the pet will be staying behind.

The right kennel

Here’s some good advice on what to look for when choosing a kennel:

-- Visit several facilities and inspect both the indoor and outdoor runs. All responsible kennel operators should be happy to show you each area in which the pets are kept.

-- Make sure the entire kennel is clean and orderly. How do the pets staying there look and act? Certainly they will be missing their owners, and dogs will be barking at visitors, but trust your senses on how well cared for they seem to be.

-- There should be adequate ventilation. A well-run kennel should not reek of strong pet smells.

-- Make sure the temperature is comfortable. Indoor/outdoor runs with temperature control on the inside sections are desirable.

-- The outdoor runs should be close to spotless and made of gravel or concrete. They should have shade available.

-- Ask how frequently the areas are cleaned.

-- The cattery should be separate and shielded from dog facilities.

-- The entire kennel, especially the outdoor runs, should be very secure. Many dogs attempt to break out, so talk to the kennel owners about this if you're worried. Also, my preference for kennels will always be those with personnel living on or near the premises so that night-time security is boosted.

Preparing to board

Make reservations early! Have receipts for current vaccinations with you when you bring Fluffy or Fido to the kennel. (All responsible kennel operators require proof of certain shots.)

Also bring along your pet’s bed or favorite safe toys, and perhaps a tee-shirt with your scent on it, to leave with him.

When you leave, be positive. Do not apologize to your dog or be emotional. He will sense your discomfort and become upset himself.

Pet-sitter tips

Good references are critical when choosing a pet-sitter. And while you’re gone, communicate by phone at least every other day to be sure all is well.

Pet-sitters are human, and in case they should have an emergency of their own while caring for your pet, have a back-up caregiver in place.

Whether you choose a kennel or pet-sitter, always leave written instructions on medical care, veterinarian contacts, and how to reach you incase of emergency.

Email pet-related news or questions to Frances Goodman at crittercorner@highdesert.com.

Pet turtle alert

issued by FDA

 Due to a recent increase in the sale of pet turtles, the Food and Drug Administration (FDA) is reminding parents and others who care for children that Salmonella infection can be caused by contact with turtles in petting zoos, parks, child care facilities, and other locations.

It is important to wash hands thoroughly with soap and water after handling or touching turtles and their housing, the agency advises.

According to the FDA, Salmonella are naturally occurring bacteria in turtles, and those with Salmonella usually do not appear sick in any way. In addition, turtles do not shed the bacteria all the time. Therefore, one negative test for Salmonella doesn’t mean that the turtle is not infected. It could mean that the turtle was not shedding Salmonella on the day it was tested.

Although anyone can acquire a salmonellosis infection, the risk is highest in infants, young children, the elderly, and others with lowered natural resistance to disease. Therefore, turtles are not suitable pets in households with young children or immune compromised persons.

In the early 1970s, it was determined that pet turtles, particularly red-eared sliders, were responsible for an estimated 280,000 cases of salmonellosis each year in the United States. Later the FDA banned the sale of turtles with a shell less than four inches long as a public health measure, and their sale remains illegal today. According to the FDA, humans contract an estimated 74,000 cases of turtle-associated salmonellosis in the United States per year.

For more information on FDA's regulation of turtles, visit http://www.fda.gov/cvm/turtleregs.htm.

HSUS petitions Florida for better vet care

at pet stores

The Humane Society of the United States has called on the Florida Department of Agriculture to issue guidelines for veterinarians inspecting dogs for sale in the state.

 The HSUS and Florida residents have petitioned the agency to formalize the inspection and certification process to ensure veterinarians do not rubber-stamp sick dogs as fit.

"Veterinarians are signing off on health forms without any verification that legally required vaccines are actually being given to puppies," said Stephanie Shain, director of companion animal outreach for The HSUS.  "It is time for the state to step in and set clear rules for pre-sale inspection so that families will not continue to take home sick and contagious puppies."

Florida's Puppy Lemon Law requires that any puppy sold in Florida must be inspected and certified as healthy by a veterinarian before sale. Some veterinarians involved in examinations have been accused of accepting the shot records provided by breeders without verifying the information. Certificates have then been issued claiming the puppy has had proper vaccines and is free from parasites.

According to the HSUS, pre-sale veterinary examination is the only line of defense against diseases and parasites. Because of the lack of rules, many very unhealthy puppies are improperly passed through inspection. This process allows puppy mills and retailers to profit from the sale of sick puppies.

The petitioners are being represented by Marcy LaHart, a public interest attorney in West Palm Beach, Fla.

Facts acording to HSUS:

• Approximately one third of the nation's 11,000 pet stores continue to sell puppies.
• Documented puppy mill conditions include over-breeding, inbreeding, minimal veterinary care, poor food and shelter, crowded cages and lack of adequate socialization.
• In Florida, as in every state, most dogs offered for sale through pet stores come from puppy mills.
• Florida has never formally adopted rules regarding how the pre-purchase exams should be conducted.

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More than just the breath factor, it's....

A matter of dental hygiene

 H ave you looked in your pet’s mouth recently?

The American Veterinary Medical Association is encouraging pet owners to practice dental hygiene for Fido and Fluffy for more reasons than just doggy or kitty breath.

According to the AVMA, an unhealthy mouth can shorten their life and contribute to serious health problems, especially when they become seniors.

More than 80 percent of dogs and 70 percent of cats show signs of oral disease by the time they're three years old, according to Dr. Brook Niemiec, a board-certified specialist in veterinary dentistry. "Make sure every veterinary checkup includes a thorough inspection of your pet's teeth and gums, and a discussion on how to keep them healthy and clean between visits,” he advises.

The AVMA offers the following advice on how to keep your pet's teeth healthy along with the advice to beware of biting when that is a possible issue:

-- Look for signs of tooth decay and oral disease by inspecting your pet's teeth regularly. Bad breath, discoloration and tartar are all indications of problems that could lead to serious health risks with the potential for not only damaging teeth and gums but internal organs.

-- Regular visits to your veterinarian should include a complete checkup of your pet's teeth. Your veterinarian should clean plaque and tartar off your pet's teeth if necessary. When tartar—created by the mixture of food debris, saliva and bacteria in the mouth—is allowed to build up it can accumulate between teeth and gums causing tooth loss, and result in an infection that could enter the bloodstream and spread to the heart or other internal organs.

-- Brush your pet's teeth daily or at least weekly. While most dogs or cats will not immediately accept a dental hygiene regimen, it can be successfully introduced with patience, particularly if you start when the pet is young.

-- To acclimate your pet to dental health, start slowly using plenty of praise and treats. Begin at a time when your pet is relaxed and massage the outside of their mouth with your finger. Then give them a taste of pet toothpaste—poultry-flavored is the most popular—and then slowly introduce a toothbrush to their teeth. Begin brushing in short intervals, working up to about 30 seconds a side.

-- Feed your dog or cat crunchy food, or at least a mix of hard and soft foods. The abrasive texture of kibble can help keep teeth clean, while soft food can cling to your pet's teeth and lead to decay. Also consider crunchy treats, which also help clean teeth.

-- Chew toys for dogs and rope toys that cats can chew are not only immensely entertaining for your pet, but also (help) keep teeth clean and breath smelling fresh.

For more information, visit www.petdental.com.

MyPetNews note: For toothbrushing, we recommend a soft brush. However, some people prefer to use the pet toothpaste with a rubber finger-brush or a piece of gauze over the index finger, instead. Whichever you choose, be sure you can use it safely.

Want less stress when

grooming the pet?

Here are helpful tips

By Frances Goodman

 Bath and grooming time at home can be stressful for pets and their people. Ask anyone who has ever ended up as wet as the pet!

Here are some tips for helping everyone stay calmer when it’s bath and grooming time:

REHEARSE IT:

  Starting right away, accustom your dog to having  paws, mouth and ears examined and handled at times other than when he/she is being groomed.   Intersperse the touching and examining practice with several small treats, so that it becomes a positive activity in his mind.

MORE TREATS

Have treats handy and use them during the actual grooming, as well. For pets that are not treat-responsive, intersperse with frequent breaks for petting and sweet-talk.

STAY CALM

 Stay calm and talk naturally to him/her while you are doing the washing and grooming. Don't be stressed yourself, or the pet will pick up on your emotions.

PROVIDE SECURE  FOOTING 

Be sure he/she is standing on a secure and stable surface for the bath. If you use the bathtub, consider getting a rubber tub mat to provide secure footing. Or browse the pet catalogs such as www.drsfostersmith.com for special grooming tubs designed to help dogs feel secure. Be sure the bath water is comfortably warm, not cold.

 AVOID COLD-WATER SHOCK

     For outside bathing, there are sink faucet adapters available at stores like Lowe’s, which allow you to hook the garden hose to an inside sink faucet, string it out a door or window, and regulate the water temperature. This avoids cold-water shock that otherwise can occur from bathing under the hose.

CAREFUL WITH NAILS

When clipping the nails, take care not to cut into the quick, which can be seen as the pink part on light-colored toenails. Be sure clippers are sharp enough to work efficiently. Hold the nail itself firmly with both fingers of one hand while you clip, so the clipper does not twist or bend the nail.

     NOISE ABATEMENT

If at all possible, avoid using a hair dryer. The noise and general presence of the dryer can be frightening. Towel-drying, and being kept in a warm area until the fur can be brushed out, are much preferable from the pet’s point of view.

  BRUSHING THE TEETH

 Introduce pets to the tooth-brushing routine, by letting them lick a little good-flavored pet toothpaste off the brush for the first few days. Be sure to use the enzyme-based kind from the pet store that is safe for them to swallow. Then graduate to brushing just one or two teeth each time, until they are comfortable with the concept. Progress to more teeth each session. Before long they should welcome the procedure, because of the good taste of the poultry- or beef-flavored toothpaste.

Following these guidelines can make the bathing and grooming  easier for all!

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ASPCA lists ten most common poisonous plants  

According to the Animal Poison Control Center of the ASPCA here are the ten most common poisonous plants.

Inside the house, puppies and cats are especially at risk for chewing on bouquets or potted plant leaves. Outdoors, all pets are at risk, but especially puppies.

Lilies

Members of the Lily family are highly toxic to cats. While the poisonous component has not yet been identified, it is clear that with even ingestions of very small amounts of the plant, severe kidney damage and death could result.

Sago Palm

All parts are poisonous, but the seeds or “nuts” contain the largest amount of toxin. The ingestion of just one or two seeds can result in very serious effects, which include vomiting, diarrhea, depression, seizures and liver failure.

Marijuana

Ingestion of marijuana by companion animals can result in depression of the central nervous system and incoordination, as well as vomiting, diarrhea, drooling, increased heart rate, and even seizures and coma.

Tulip/Narcissus bulbs

The bulb portions of Tulipa/Narcissus contain toxins that can cause intense gastrointestinal irritation, drooling, loss of appetite, depression of the central nervous system, convulsions and cardiac abnormalities.

Azalea/Rhododendron

Members of the Rhododenron family  contain substances known as grayantoxins, which can produce vomiting, drooling, diarrhea, weakness and depression of the central nervous system in animals. Severe azalea poisoning could ultimately lead to coma and death from cardiovascular collapse.

Oleander

All parts of oleander are considered to be toxic, as they contain cardiac glycosides that have the potential to cause serious effects—including gastrointestinal tract irritation, abnormal heart function, hypothermia and even death.

Castor Bean

The poisonous principle in Ricinus communis is ricin, a highly toxic protein that can produce severe abdominal pain, drooling, vomiting, diarrhea, excessive thirst, weakness and loss of appetite. Severe cases of poisoning can result in dehydration, muscle twitching, tremors, seizures, coma and death.

Cyclamen

Cylamen species contain cyclamine, but the highest concentration of this toxic component is typically located in the root portion of the plant. If consumed, Cylamen can produce significant gastrointestinal irritation, including intense vomiting. Fatalities have also been reported in some cases.

Kalanchoe

This plant contains components that can produce gastrointestinal irritation, as well as those that are toxic to the heart, and can seriously affect cardiac rhythm and rate.

Yew

Ccontains a toxic component known as taxine, which causes central nervous system effects such as trembling, incoordination, and difficulty breathing. It can also cause significant gastrointestinal irritation and cardiac failure, which can result in death.

The ASPCA Animal Poison Control Center is available for consultation on any poison-related emergency, 24 hours a day, 365 days a year at: (888) 426-4435. A $55 consultation fee may be applied to your credit card.

NOVEMBER 2005 ARTICLE:

Newly emerged canine virus

resembles kennel cough at start

      Scientists  have confirmed the widespread existence of a newly emerged canine influenza virus that has jumped species from horses to dogs.

At a recent media briefing by the Center for Disease Control, the following information was given:

--The flu can sometimes be deadly, but the mortality rate is only about 8 percent of those who contract it.  Just as with cases of human flu, patients most likely to succumb are those with pre-existing health issues and/or compromised immune systems.

--At the outset, symptoms resemble those of kennel cough (Bordatello). However,  canine flu can progress to a bacterial infection, leading to complications such as pneumonia.

--There is no vaccine for it yet, but scientists are working to develop one.

--Since it is a newly mutated virus and there is no vaccine for it, all dogs who are exposed to it will contract it, either in mild or serious form.

--It appears to be spread by dog-to-dog contact or close proximity to an infected dog, such as at dog shows or dog parks.

--Anyone whose dog is recovering from canine flu or from any respiratory infection or cough (which may have been the virus) should keep the dog confined and away from other dogs for two weeks after recovery.

The new viral strain was first discovered in 2004 when outbreaks occurred in the Florida Greyhound racing industry, and spread along the East Coast. Since then, it has been reported in many parts of the country, including Southern California and the High Desert.

Kennel cough vaccine will not protect against the new canine flu. However, it still is recommended when dogs will be in close contact with other dogs, such as at boarding kennels or similar situations.

In  Case of Emergency

Be Prepared

When things are going smoothly, it’s hard to stop and plan ahead for emergencies.

Still we know from experience they do happen. Planning ahead for our pets’ welfare is an important part of being prepared.

 According to the ASPCA, part of the plan should be to bring our pets indoors at the first sign or warning of a storm or disaster. Pets can become disoriented and wander away from home during a crisis, so bring them in early, they advise. 

Consider your evacuation route and call ahead to make arrangements for boarding your pet outside of the danger zone at the first sign of disaster. If you must take your pet to an evacuation shelter, be sure he/she is confined in a crate or sturdy carrier with your name and contact information on the crate, and of course on the pet’s tags.

 Best of all, keep your pet safely and securely with you if at all possible. Pets panic easily in confusing situations and keeping them securely contained or leashed is critical. 

The ASPCA recommends keeping an emergency pet kit on hand containing the following:

·         Canned (pop-top) or dry food.

·         Photocopies of medical records and a waterproof container with a two-week supply of any medicine your pet requires. (Remember that food and medications need to be rotated out of your emergency kit otherwise they will go bad or become useless.)

·         Bottled water.

·         A pet traveling bag or sturdy carrier, ideally one for each pet.

·         Flashlight.

·         Blanket (for scooping up a fearful pet)

·         Photos of your pets (in case you are separated and need to make "Lost" posters).

 The kit should contain any other supplies you know your pet will need.

Having a pet that is crate-trained (already used to spending short periods of time in a crate or carrier) is also helpful—for the pet’s sake. If pets have to be taken to evacuation shelters, where they must be kept in crates, being in a strange place with strange activity is not as bad for those who already are crate-trained.

The right way to

feed your puppy

By Frances Goodman

How you feed your new puppy can determine many things about his behavior as an adult, as well as the quality of your relationship with him.

 The most powerful lessons in a new puppy’s life are related to food.

Food is the first and most dramatic way that a puppy identifies with Mama Dog.

 Food continues to play an important role when puppy goes into its new home. The right feeding techniques can help your puppy bond with you and identify you as the leader of his new pack. Early food bowl training can also prevent the development of food bowl aggression or “food guarding” behavior later on.

 Professional trainers have learned that positive experiences with the food bowl at a young age are a valuable part of producing a good dog. You can give your puppy a head start toward becoming a "good dog" by following these professional training methods at feeding time:

MEALTIME SCHEDULE

--FOLLOW A SET feeding schedule, generally three times a day (or more frequently for very young puppies). Then graduate to twice daily when puppy is six months old and throughout adulthood.

--AT FEEDING TIME, leave the food down for no more than 15 minutes. Then take up what is not eaten. Food should be offered again at the next scheduled feeding time. Very soon, puppy’s appetite will correspond with feeding time, and he/she will begin eating on schedule. (This will help with your potty training as well! If we want to schedule the “output,” we need to schedule the “input.”)

Following a set schedule will also help the puppy bond with you and respond to you in a way that free-feeding (leaving food down all the time) will NOT accomplish. Puppy needs to realize that you are the food provider and that you are in charge of it.

(The only reason a structured feeding schedule should not be observed is if your veterinarian advises free-feeding for health reasons.)

FOOD BOWL EXERCISES:

In addition to the above, the following training exercises can help prevent food bowl aggression or “food guarding,” and can result in a happier more relaxed adult dog. (However, do not put yourself at risk if food-bowl-aggression has already developed. These exercises should begin early enough to prevent food bowl aggression from ever beginning.)

--STAY WITH THE PUPPY while he is eating, stroke him gently, and talk lovingly to him. Occasionally dip your hand into the bowl and offer food from your fingers, so the puppy becomes accustomed to having hands around the bowl while he/she is eating. (This exercise should be done by adults in the family. However, with good judgment and close supervision by an adult, children may be allowed to do it, if they do it properly.)

--SOMETIMES remove the dish briefly while puppy is eating, add some crumbled-up treats to the food, and then place the bowl back under his nose so he can continue eating. As you remove the dish, use the word, “GIVE,” and then say, “OKAY!” as you place it back under puppy’s nose.

--WHEN PUPPY is finished eating, remove the empty food bowl from the floor, so that a possessive attitude about the food bowl as puppy’s “property” does not develop.

These methods can help puppy develop a relaxed attitude toward the food bowl and a good relationship with you. You’re on the road to raising a well-behaved dog.

Note: Not sure of the correct amount to feed at each mealtime? Different food formulas have different nutrition levels! Check the label on the food bag to see how much your puppy should get per day.

If the feeding schedule is three times daily, give one/third of the recommended amount at each feeding, or if twice daily, one half at each feeding, so by the end of the day the total recommended quantity has been fed.